Robin: In Mexico, these piggies would probably not be called galletas (cookies) at all; there they are one of the dozens of traditional panes dulces (sweet breads) that are part of the fabric of daily life. Cookies in Mexico tend to be fancy, delicate little things, and these hog shaped pieces of baked dough are unassuming and relatively large. Whatever you call them, however, they are one of the most beloved items in any Mexican bakery. They make a delicious breakfast, teatime treat, or evening snack.
Piggy cookies are referred to as “Mexican gingerbread” by some, and they do have a similar rustic feel. Piggies do not contain any ginger, however, and they are not particularly associated with winter or the holidays. Their homey dough is not overly sweet and only lightly spiced. When and how this rustic dough product came to be universally associated with a porcine shape is lost to memory.
In all the many years that I lived in Mexico City, I never once made piggy cookies. Why would I, when they can be inexpensively purchased at any neighborhood or supermarket bakery? They are called puerquitos, cochinitos, or marranitos there—all terms which translate to “little pigs.” My favorite source was an older gentleman who sold them by the bag from a folding table he set up on the sidewalk down near the Básilica de Guadalupe. His product was full of rustic flavor and aroma, slightly softer than any others I had tried, and although the pig shape was almost imperceptible (they looked more like rounded rectangles than anything else), I would buy a couple dozen large puerquitos every week or so in order to have plenty to eat myself and lots left over to share.
Once back in the USA—and not living in a Mexican neighborhood—the cochinitos were hard to find. I ended up developing this recipe in order to get my fix when I hadn’t had any piggies in a long time. As I was unable to find a pig-shaped cookie cutter that was large enough, my loving husband made one for me from pipe hanger material from the hardware store. I doubt if any piggy cookie recipe will ever equal my favorite street vendor’s product, but this recipe makes a reasonably respectable hog, if I do say so myself.
Ingredient note: Piggies are traditionally made with piloncillo, a wonderful rough sugar product alternately known also as panela, panocha, rapadura, tapa de dulce, chancaca, or papelón, depending on what part of the Spanish speaking world you are in. It is the unrefined, complex flavor of this sweetener that gives the cookies their characteristic flavor. If you are unable to locate piloncillo, you can substitute dark brown sugar, but add a tablespoon molasses to the mix, as well, to replicate some of the flavor notes of the traditional product.
Mexican Piggy Cookies
Ingredients
- 9 ounces (250 grams) piloncillo
- 1 and 1/2 cups water
- 2 sticks cinnamon
- 5 whole cloves
- 2 pieces (“stars”) of star anise
- 2 whole dried allspice berries
- 4 and 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
- 1 and 1/2 teaspoons baking soda
- ½ teaspoon salt
- 1 and 1/2 cups pork lard or vegetable shortening
- 4 eggs, divided (3 for the dough and the other for “varnishing” the tops)
Instructions
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Make the piloncillo syrup: If the piloncillo is in one large piece, try to break into chunks so that it will dissolve more easily; if it is too hard to break, leave it whole, but realize that it will take longer to break down.
Put the piloncillo into a saucepan with the water, cinnamon, cloves, star anise, and allspice berries. Place the pan on the stove over low heat for 20 minutes or so, until the piloncillo is completely dissolved and has formed a light syrup.
Remove the syrup from the stove and allow it to come to room temperature. Once cooled, strain it and discard the whole spices.
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Prepare the dough: In a medium-sized bowl stir together the flour, baking soda, and salt. Add the lard or vegetable shortening and mix well, using a wooden spoon and rubber scraper. Add 3 of the eggs and the piloncillo syrup and continue to stir with both utensils until well combined.
Cover the bowl and refrigerate the dough for at least 8 hours (or up to 2 days).
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Cut and bake your cookies: Preheat oven to 350F/ 180C. Prepare a couple of cookie sheets by greasing and flouring them or lining them with parchment paper.
Break the other egg into a small cup and beat it with a fork until the white and yolk are well mixed. You’ll use this to “varnish” the unbaked cookies.
Take about a fourth of the dough out of the fridge and roll it out on a floured surface to about ¼ inch thick. Use cookie cutters or a sharp knife to cut out the traditional large pig shapes or another shape. Place shapes on the prepared baking sheet. Work slowly and patiently, as dough will be soft and you will need to be careful with it.
Once cookies are on the baking sheet, brush each one with a little of the beaten egg.
Bake the cookies until they have browned and the egg “varnish” on them has turned shiny, 20 to 30 minutes, depending on cookie size. Remove them from the oven and transfer to a wire rack or a flat surface covered with paper towels to cool.
Continue this process until you run out of dough, making sure to allow baking sheets to cool between uses.
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Serve your piggy cookies with hot chocolate, hot coffee, or cold milk. Eat them plain or top with jelly, butter, or peanut butter. Store leftover pieces tightly covered.
More delicious, rustic sweeteness:
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