Robin: Some traditional, labor-intensive dishes seem almost not worth the effort to make, and we end up having them more for nostalgia’s sake than for the dishes themselves. The quintessential Mexican classic Chiles en Nogada is not like that; it definitely would be worth the work even if took twice the time to prepare.
Chiles en Nogada is one of just a handful of the most iconic Mexican dishes—and that’s saying a lot, since we are talking about a cuisine crowded with more than its share of tradition, variety, and wonderful flavors. The dish is certainly not something that Mexicans eat frequently, though, since it requires a good amount of work and calls for certain ingredients (like walnuts and pine nuts) that can often cost more than most people can routinely afford. This dish is a labor of love, and very much a celebration food.
The run up to Mexican Independence Day (Sept. 16th) begins in late August, and these few weeks comprise the short period in which almost all chiles en nogada are prepared in Mexico. The finished product shows off the green, white, and red of the country’s flag, making this dish—already very Mexican in its ingredients and preparation methods—festive and very patriotic in appearance, as well.
What makes chiles en nogada so good? It is a unique, harmonious combination of sweet, salty, and creamy flavors plus an amazing variety of textures uncommon in just one dish: the chewy meat hash, the creamy sauce, the juicy-crunchy pomegranate seeds. Some Mexican cooks even go so far as to coat the peppers in beaten egg white and briefly deep fry them (a process known as capeado), which adds even more layers of texture and flavor. However, I find the dish more enjoyable in the slightly simpler form I present here.
Note: as often happens with very festive dishes, this recipe is somewhat labor intensive. I always try to plan ahead so I can prepare the picadillo filling two days before I plan to serve, roast and stuff the peppers themselves the day before, and make the walnut sauce the day of. Spacing out the steps certainly helps to make the preparation of this dish more of a chore and more of a pleasant build up to a great moment, that of presenting the finished dish to the oohs and ahhs of your guests.
Chiles en Nogada (Stuffed Poblano Chiles in Creamy Walnut Sauce)
Ingredients
- 3 cups walnut halves or pieces*
- 3 cups milk
-
6
cups
(one batch) of
Celebration Picadillo - 6 medium-sized fresh poblano chile peppers
- 3 cups sour cream
- 8 ounces 225 grams queso fresco or other fresh white crumbly cheese
- 1 tablespoon salt
- Half of a fresh pomegranate
- 1 small bunch of parsley
Instructions
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*Many times the walnut meats will have no “skin” on them, but if you’ve cracked your own or purchased walnut halves in a somewhat rustic form, you may need to remove their thin outer layer to eliminate the bitter flavor. To do that, cover the walnut halves with very hot (though not boiling) water; let them soak about 10 minutes. Drain, then rub each piece between your fingers; the thin, dark brown, outer layer will come off.
Place the walnuts into a deep bowl and pour the milk over them. Refrigerate. Let them soak for at least six hours or overnight.
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Make the Celebration Picadillo and allow it to cool to room temperature. (This can be done 2 or 3 days before you actually assemble this dish, if you like.)
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Take the nut and milk mixture out of the fridge; set it aside and allow it to come to room temperature.
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Roast the fresh poblano peppers directly over the flame of a gas stove, or under the broiler of an electric stove, turning them frequently so that the outer layer of “skin” blisters relatively evenly all over the peppers. Place the whole roasted peppers inside a plastic bag and let them “sweat” until they are cool enough to handle. Carefully peel the blistered outer layer of skin from the peppers, handling them very gently so that they tear as little as possible.
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Slit each pepper open (or use a slit formed while you were peeling it), and very carefully remove all the seeds and any loose veins inside. Leave the stem attached and intact, if at all possible.
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Working with all gentleness, stuff each pepper with about a cup of the picadillo or picadillo especial filling. Set aside.
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Make the creamy walnut sauce: Drain the walnuts, saving and setting aside the milk they soaked in. Place the nuts into the blender together with the queso fresco, sour cream, salt, and one cup of the milk. Blend until you obtain a velvety smooth sauce, adding more milk if necessary. Do not add more milk than necessary, however, as too much of it will make the sauce too thin and decrease the delicate flavor of the walnuts. Set the sauce aside.
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Separate the pomegranate into individual seeds, and set aside.
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Chop the parsley, if you like, or just separate the leaves from the stems, discarding the stems. Set aside.
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When you’re ready to serve your delicious Chiles en Nogada, place all the stuffed peppers in an attractive arrangement on a serving platter, or arrange one on each individual dinner place. Pour a portion of the creamy nut sauce over each pepper, then sprinkle on the pomegranate seeds and parsley. Serve and enjoy!
Recipe Notes
Chiles en Nogada are usually served at room temperature and by themselves (without any other items on the plate). Warm corn tortillas are a wonderful accompaniment, as the flavors are complementary and the tortilla can be used to help eat the peppers: pieces of stuffed peppers can be wrapped in a hot tortilla, making a delicious chiles en nogada taco, or a rolled up tortilla can be used as a tool to pick up and savor any stray sauce on the plate.
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